Bull Creek FlatsIncluding the Bull Creek Flats Trail and the Big Tree TrailLength 10.0 mi · Climbing 300 ftCalifornia > Southern Humboldt County > Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Bull Creek Flats near the Big Tree Area Background
The Bull Creek loop is a pleasant meander through a flat, dense alluvial floodplain forest. With the exception of the Eel River valley (which has highway 101 running through it), there's no other old-growth redwood forest this big on a floodplain. The Bull Creek loop is the combination of two trails: the Bull Creek Flats Trail on the south side of the creek and the Tall Trees Trail on the north. The complete loop can only be hiked in the summer when the footbridges over Bull Creek are up. The footbridges are up roughly between mid-May and late September, but during rainy years the bridges may not be installed until July. When the footbridges are out, the only way to access the Bull Creek Flats trail is from Grasshopper Road, at the west end of the trail (in fact, in winter this trailhead offers the only access to all Humboldt Redwoods trails south of Bull Creek and west of the Eel River). The best option is to hike the Big Tree Trail one way with a return by car, bicycle, or foot along Mattole Road. In winter the Big Tree Trail is more attractive than the Bull Creek Flats Trail, since it stays near the creek for its entire length, poison oak is not present in winter, and traffic along Mattole Road is likely to be light in winter. |
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South side: The Bull Creek Flats Trail
At one time, the Bull Creek Flats Trail actually did lead along the flats for its entire length. However, floods and fires have damaged the trail, and erosion from foot traffic threatens tree roots. As a result, the trail is being rerouted onto the hillside above the flat. At present, only the section from the Tall Tree Area to Connick Creek remains in its original location, and even this section is about to be moved. This is unfortunate because the old trail was truly magnificent — by far the best of the old-growth alluvial plain trails. The new trail, though still nice, does not begin to compare with the old. In part this is because the cathedral-like old growth ends abruptly as the land rises above the floodplain: while the old trail lead through the forest and provided an immersive, close-up look, the new trail runs alongside it and feels more remote. The Tall Trees Trail on the north side of Bull Creek still runs through the flats, but being next to Mattole Road it doesn't offer quite the same sense of serenity. Several unofficial paths have been worn into the groundcover by hikers searching for the original trail, but they are all dead ends since the trail is blocked by fallen trees and washed-out creek banks. The Bull Creek Flats trail starts at Grasshopper Road, where there's enough parking for several cars. The trail begins in an attractive redwood grove but soon climbs onto a hillside with few redwoods. The first mile of the trail, until the Big Tree area, is not particularly attractive. In the winter, it's also slow going because it gets very muddy. Fortunately, the mud ends as soon as the trail enters the Big Tree area, and doesn't return for the rest of the hike (when you encounter mud on a redwood hike, look around: chances are, you won't see many redwoods in the immediate area).
The Bull Creek Flats Trail near the Big Tree Area The Big Tree Area is the nicest part of the Bull Creek Flats trail. The trail winds through the grove and another, similar grove for about a mile. For the next mile, the trail follows the contour of the hillside about 20 to 40 feet above the floodplain. This portion, while not as nice as the flats, is still quite scenic. Then for the last half mile, the trail climbs further up the hillside, which is the least attractive portion of the hike. Finally, the trail drops back down to the somewhat gloomy Lower Bull Creek Flats and the seasonal footbridge to Rockefeller Grove and the Tall Trees Trail. North side: The Rockefeller Grove and Big Tree Trail
If the seasonal bridge is out, the Rockefeller Grove can also be reached by car from Mattole Road. There's a parking lot that's accessed by a short dirt road that descends so steeply that it's nearly invisible from Mattole Road. Look carefully once you see the Rockefeller Grove sign. The Rockefeller grove, like the nearby Founders' Grove and the Avenue of the Giants, is particularly dense and dark. Not only is sunlight heavily filtered by the trees, but the tree trunks have been darkened (a few even turned completely black) by the wildfires that occur in this relatively dry area. The overall effect is of a serious and stately forest, somewhat like a huge soot-stained cathedral in an industrial city. Traffic noise from highway 101 is clearly audible and while distracting, it's not overwhelming.
The Big Tree Trail in the Upper Bull Creek Flats Leaving the grove, the trail passes through some very nice redwood groves interspersed with streamside communities of smaller deciduous trees. The trail is very close to Mattole Road in places. The traffic noise is annoying on a summer weekend, but on a weekday there's only one car every 10 or 20 minutes (in the early morning there seem to be a lot of trucks headed for the Lost Coast) and the presence of the road is not as objectionable. In the summer, this part of the trail is densely overgrown with poison oak. Overall, this trail is much more pleasant in winter, when you can walk without constantly checking for poison oak overhanging the trail. The trail soon passes from Lower to Upper Bull Creek Flats and meanders through two exceptional redwood groves. The first grove is midway along the trail, while the second is to the west of the Tall Trees parking lot (if you are making a loop hike and cross at the Tall Trees footbridge, you'll miss the second grove, which is one of the best parts of the hike). Between the groves, the trail joins the road as it curves along Bull Creek past a clearing, offering a little sunlight and some very nice views of tall redwoods growing along the creek. While still somewhat dense and slightly fire-darkened, the two Upper Bull Creek Flats groves are not dark and forbidding like the Rockefeller grove. There are glimpses of tapering sunlit treetops and impossibly tall and thin light beige trunks shooting high into the sky. The groves exemplify the "cathedral-like" redwood forest, with the fluted columnar trunks illuminated by flecks of sunlight filtered through the stained-glass canopy. Especially in winter, the pleasant sound of rushing water permeates the area. Related websites
© 2007 David Baselt |
